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Titel och upphov The culture of sewing : gender, consumption and home dressmaking
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Fysisk beskrivning xvi, 350 s. ill., diagr., tab.
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ISBN 1859732089 1859732038 1859732089
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Throughout its long history, home dressmaking has been a formative experience in the lives of millions of women. In an age of relative affluence and mass production, it is easy to forget that just over a generation ago, young girls from middle- and working-class backgrounds were routinely taught to sew as a practical necessity. However, not only have the skills involved in home dressmaking been overlooked and marginalized due to their association with women and the home, but the impact home dressmaking had on women's lives and broader socioeconomic structures also has been largely ignored. This book is the first serious account of the significance of home dressmaking as a form of European and American material culture. Exploring themes from the last two hundred years to the present, including gender, technology, consumption and visual representation, contributors show how home dressmakers negotiated and experienced developments to meet a wide variety of needs and aspirations. Not merely passive consumers, home dressmakers have been active producers within family economies. They have been individuals with complex agendas expressed through their roles as wives, mothers and workers in their own right and shaped by ideologies of femininity and class.This book represents a vital contribution to women's studies, the history of fashion and dress, design history, material culture, sociology and anthropology.
Acknowledgements p. xi Notes on Contributors p. xiii Introduction p. 1 Note p. 16 References p. 16 Home Dressmaking, Class and Identity p. 19 Patterns of Respectability: Publishing, Home Sewing and the Dynamics of Class and Gender 1870-1914 p. 21 Notes p. 30 References p. 31 Made at Home by Clever Fingers: Home Dressmaking in Edwardian England p. 33 Notes p. 50 References p. 51 On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home p. 55 Notes p. 68 References p. 70 Making Modern Worm, Stitch by Stitch: Dressmaking and Women's Magazine in Britain 1919-39 p. 73 Notes p. 90 References p. 93 Home Sewing: Motivational Changes in the Twentieth Century p. 97 References p. 107 There's No Place like Home: Home Dressmaking and Creativity in the Jamaican Community of the 1940s to the 1960s p. 111 Notes p. 122 References p. 124 Home Dressmaking and Consumption p. 127 Wearily Moving Her Needle: Army Officers' Wives and Sewing in the Nineteenth Century American West p. 129 References p. 138 Commodified Craft, Creative Community: Women's Vernacular Dress in Nineteenth-Century Philadelphia p. 141 Notes p. 154 References p. 155 Creating Consumers: Gender, Class and the Family Sewing Machine p. 157 References p. 166 Patterns of Choice: Women's and Children's Clothing in the Wallis Archive, York Castle Museum p. 169 References p. 191 The Sewing Needle as Magic Wand: Selling Sewing Lessons to American Girls after the Second World War p. 193 References p. 204 Virtul Home Dressmaking Dressmakers and Seamstressess in Post- War Toronto p. 207 References p. 218 Home Dressmaking Dissemination and Technology p. 221 'the Lady's Economical Assistant' of 1808 p. 223 Notes p. 231 References p. 234 Dreams on Paper: a Story of the Commericial Pattern Industery p. 235 Notes p. 251 References p. 252 Homeworking and the Sewing Machine in the British Clothing Industery 1850-1905 p. 255 Notes p. 265 References p. 267 The Sewing Machine Comes Home p. 269 Notes p. 282 References p. 282 A Beautiful Ornament in the Parlour or Boudoir: the Domestication of the Sewing Machine p. 285 Notes p. 298 References p. 300 Home Economics and Home Swing in the United States 187o-1940 p. 303 Notes p. 320 References p. 323 'your Clothes Are Materials of War': the British Government Promotion of Home Sawing during the Second World War p. 327 Notes p. 337 References p. 338 Index p. 341