Konstfacks bibliotek

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^

Recent interest in 'vintage' and second hand clothes by both fashion consumers and designers is only the latest manifestation of a long and complex cultural history of wearing and trading second hand clothes. With its origins in necessity, the passing of clothes between social and economic groups is now a global business, but with roots that are centuries old. To move from one social and cultural situation to another used clothes must be 'transformed' to become of potential value to a new social group. How, when and why this has happened is the subject of this book. Old Clothes, New Looks presents a three-part focus on the history, the trading culture, and the contemporary refashioning of second hand clothing. Historical perspectives include studies located in Renaissance Florence, early industrial England, colonial Australia, and mid twentieth-century Ireland. The global nature of the second hand trade in clothing is presented through original research from Zambia, India, the Philippines, Hong Kong, and Japan. The reuse of garments as contemporary fashion statements is explored through studies that include neo-mod retro-sixties subculture in Germany, the impact of 'vintage' in the USA on consumers and designers, as well as consideration of its sartorial and cultural challenges, encapsulated by the work of designer XULY.Bet. This groundbreaking book will be essential reading for all those interested in fashion and dress, material culture, consumption and anthropology, as well as to dealers, collectors and wearers of second hand clothes.

• Introduction
• Historical Perspectives
• Introduction
• 'The Florentine Arigattieri: Second Hand Clothing Dealers and the Circulation of Goods in the Renaissance'
• 'Shifting Currency: the Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c. 1600-1850'
• 'Cast Offs: Civilization, Charity or Commerce? Aspects of Second Hand Clothing Use in Australia'
• 'Second Hand Silk Kimono Migrating Across Borders'
• 'Parcels from America: American Clothes in Ireland, c. 1930 - 1980'
• Trading Cultures
• Introduction--Alexandra Palmer, Royal Ontarion Museum
• Crafting Appearances: The Second Hand Clothing Trade and DressPractices in Zambia'
• 'Creative Entrepreneurs: The Recycling of Second Hand Indian Clothing'
• 'Ukay-Ukay@ Chic: Tales of Second Hand Clothing in the Philippine Cordillera'
• 'Second Hand Fashion, Culture and Identity in Hong Kong'
• Contemporary Re-Fashioning
• Introduction--Alexandra Palmer
• 'Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Retro Scene'
• 'Vintage Whores and Vintage Virgins: Second Hand Fashion in the 21st Century'
• 'Working the Edge: XULY.Bt=s Recycled Clothing'