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Titel och upphov Adorned in dreams : fashion and modernity
Utgivning, distribution etc. Bloomsbury Visual Arts, London : 2020
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DDC klassifikationskod (Dewey Decimal Classification)
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Fysisk beskrivning 1 volume illustrations 22 cm
Anmärkning: Bibliografi etc. Includes bibliographical references and index.
Term
ISBN
Antal i kö:
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*250 $aNew edition.
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*650 0$aCostume$xHistory.
*650 0$aFashion$xHistory.
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*650 7$aFashion.$2fast
*650 0$aClothing and dress
*650 0$aCostume
*650 0$aFashion
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When "Adorned in Dreams" was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as 'the best I have read on the subject, bar none'. Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or to subvert it and this brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the 'boho chic' of the mid 90's, retro-dressing and the meanings of dress from the veil to Beck's pink-varnished toenails.
Acknowledgements p. vi Foreword: A rationale for the new edition. p. vii Introduction p. 1 The History of Fashion p. 16 A brief history of fashion from its rise in the courts and cities of the early mercantile period, its farther evolution in the period of industrialization and the growth of huge cities, the increasing separation between public and private, and the development of modern individualism. Explaining It Away p. 47 A survey of theoretical writings on fashion, suggesting that none of the theorists who have relied on a single theoretical perspective have completely or satisfactorily explained fashion. Veblen's theory of conspicuous consumption is rejected, as is Alison Lurie's theory of dress as language. The possibility of utilizing the concept of 'modernity' is explored. The Fashion Industry p. 67 An account of the development of manufactured clothing, and particularly of the modern mass production of fashionable styles. Fashion and Eroticism p. 91 A survey of attempts to explain fashion in terms of sexuality, and of aspects of dress especially associated with eroticism: underwear, corsetry and cosmetics; a discussion of the use of clothing in pornography, and the relationship of fetishism to fashion. Gender and Identity p. 117 The distinction between 'gender' and 'sexuality' and between the feminine and the erotic. An exploration of bisexuality, androgyny and cross dressing in fashion, and the development of new and more ambiguous tastes in 'beauty' associated with 'modernity'. Fashion and City Life p. 134 A further exploration of the effect of metropolitan life on fashion and its development. A survey of the development of shopping in industrialized society. Fashion and Popular Culture p. 155 A brief survey of the influence of sports, entertainment, theatre, film, photography and travel on fashionable styles, and their relation to the development of mass-produced and mass-marketed fashions. Oppositional Dress p. 179 Counter-cultural, sub-cultural and other 'deviant' forms of dress, and their development in industrialized society. The relationship of counter-cultural styles to political dissent. Utopian Dress and Dress Reform p. 208 A brief history of the nineteenth-century dress reform movement and of twentieth-century developments; and a survey of dress and fashion in Utopian literature: the attempt to abolish fashion. Feminism and Fashion p. 228 The feminist condemnation of fashion is rejected, and it is suggested that it is inappropriate to see fashion as a moral problem, or as evidence of inauthenticity, 'false consciousness' or subjection to false values. We should rather see it as an artistic and political means of expression, albeit an ambiguous one. Changing Times/Altered States p. 248 An overview of developments in fashion and dress since 1985. The rich developments in the study and theorisation of dress are discussed and an attempt is made to chart changes in attitude to dress and in its representation and distribution. References p. 278 Bibliography p. 302 Index p. 315